Fashion Designer Handbags Notebook Bags

Fashion Designer Handbags Notebook Bags

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Armani loosens silhouette for men next winter as Milan Fashion Week draws to close

Armani loosens silhouette for men next winter as Milan Fashion Week draws to close

MILAN Milan designers offered a softer, sporty silhouette for men next fall and winter.

Menswear has been driving Italian luxury exports as well as global sales of luxury goods as men become more daring and discerning in their wardrobe choices. Purchases are no longer relegated to special occasion tuxes or watches, but also encompass every day wear for home and office.

That can help explain the trend in Milan toward relaxed and athletic looks, typified by active wear pants cinched at the waist, often in knit fabrics, paired with big, boxy sweat shirts and sweaters. There was a sense of escape, offering men an alternate reality.

Still, there was no shortage of suits and coats. One of the week’s strongest trends were skinny pants, evoking the 1960s, often worn with neat, cropped jackets.

The main colour palate was darkly masculine, with a smattering of dusty pastels and contrast of eggplant, peacock and greens. Designers also flashed up garments in shiny silver and gold. Shoes were heavily soled and bags ample.

Even when loose and casual, the looks were always underpinned by Italian tailoring, craftsmanship and innovative textiles that enriched the garments putting the focus on Made in Italy. Designers achieved fresh effects by reworking fabrics, weaving flax with cashmere to retain a masculine edge to sweaters and bonding neoprene with Tuscan wool for a turbulent surface effect on outerwear. One house, Etro, even paraded their artisans down the runway alongside the garments they helped realize.

Giorgio Armani has loosened up his silhouette for next winter.

The Milan fashion powerhouse sprang to prominence with his 1970s deconstructed jacket with big shoulders. For next winter’s menswear collection, previewed Tuesday on the last day of Milan Fashion Week, Armani has reworked that jacket, taking structural cues from cardigans.

The result is a look that maintains the emblematic Armani tailoring while at the same time being relaxed with gently sloping, raglan shoulders. Then Armani does something else: he inverts his look, and beneath the easy jacket, which is almost always unbuttoned, he puts a very button down vest, double breasted with or without a slotted lapel for a new take on the three piece suit.

Pants were mostly straight, often with a neat raised crease running down the front. Armani also created baggier trousers for some more athletic and Bohemian looks.

Still, the looser silhouette was almost always kept in check by more constrained elements and mood of the collection overall was sober and elegant. Colors were dark hues, blue, brown and greys, with white shirts providing contrast. Fabrics included velvet and corduroy.

Roberto Cavalli’s menswear collection next fall and winter encapsulated his vision of a man who is free spirited, never dull, and always impeccably dressed.

“So many menswear collections are boring,” Cavalli said before his show. “I try not to make it boring.”

His womenswear collections usually revolve around sexy dresses done in animal prints, and Cavalli’s men’s line also heeds the call of the wild. An overcoat starts out as herringbone at the bottom and gradually transforms to zebra print at the top. A slim cut suit was paired with rock’n’roll inspired creepers with studs around the sole or done up in leopard. The surface of leather in biker jackets is reworked with studs from within to resemble the blister like surface of tropical lizards.

And where else but on Cavalli’s runway would you see a full length fur coat done in a patchwork of black, white and red fox?

Canadian design duo Dan and Dean Catena at DSquared2, known for their memorable runway shows, outdid themselves this time by transforming their menswear fall winter 2014 2015 catwalk into a prison.

The show started with a model tied up in a straitjacket and being dragged off by two burly orderlies to the sound of a siren. And the soundtrack included Nurse Ratched from “One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest.”

The lights went on to reveal a cell block filled with DSquared2 “inmates,” perhaps doing time for fashion crimes. The first model out worn an orange bomber jacket with “Caten Penitentiary” emblazoned across the back.

Many of the looks involved jeans cuffed above the ankle and Dr. Martens style work boots. Leather or denim jean jackets were paired with black pants stopping above the angle. A jean jacket came with straitjacket style buckles running down the back. For a more formal look, there was a black cloth bomber jacket with patch pockets worn over a white shirt and narrow tie.

Moscow exhibition explores ‘The War That Ended Peace’ War That Ended Peace, an exhibition marking the First World War centenary, is on now.

Saving Private SmithBARNARD CASTLE, England Carved into the simple obelisk commemorating the fallen are the names.

Maestro Riccardo Muti marks 100 years since WWI’s start with Verdi’s Requiem to honour war deadROME Maestro Riccardo Muti is conducting Verdi Requiem Mass in northeastern Italy to.

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Fashion titan to Italy’s presumed new leader

Fashion titan to Italy’s presumed new leader

MILAN Milan and Rome are Italy’s yin and yang: fashion capital, political capital, their fates entwined.

This week, while Milan revels in what it does best, showing off its Made in Italy ready to wear fashion to the world, Rome is mesmerized by the rapid rise of Florence Mayor Matteo Renzi who confirmed Friday that he has formed a new government.

Though one capital is viewed as productive and the other as entrenched, Italy’s fashion world is mindful that whatever is decided in Rome is crucial to the industry’s global competitiveness.

Giorgio Armani says he expects “real attention” from the new government action not talk. On the policy front, he would like to see politicians bring down the cost of labour in the name of preserving the Italian know how.

“If China can make plastic jewelry for 30 euros, why do we have to pay 150 euros in Italy,” Armani asked during a chat with reporters after his Emporio Armani preview show.

Emporio Armani joins Blumarine, Etro and Versace in showing their wears Friday, the third day of Milan Fashion Week.

Donatella Versace’s womenswear collection for next winter tells a story of a woman who battles and emerges victorious.

The story starts with a simple female warrior, a soldier low in the ranks with just a smattering of gold buttons on the bias cut uniform, snug yet modest dress.

The mood intensifies with double breasted military style coat with epaulets, a short colored fur with metal buttons down the V front, a cropped military jacket worn with slim trousers and satin finish dress capes. And the collection wraps up with form fitting sensual silky dresses worn with gold embroidered macrame sashes and one big golden medal, Olympic style. Her victory is clear.

The bling in the collection is at a minimum for Versace and the message is clear: power comes from within.

EAST MEETS WEST

BluMarine designer Anna Molinari has seemingly set out to preserve Italian craftsmen singlehandedly by dint of her elaborately embroidered collection.

Golden needlework adorned midnight blue suits and sweeping robes. Jacquard lame highlights are woven into evening wear. Sequins are sewn into jewel colored dresses, one a mini and one a snug gown with blousy top.

The collection evokes Japan, in its kimono colours and floral prints as well as the subtle addition of understated Obi belts, while retaining contemporary Italian fashion in the supple leather jumpsuits, tuxedo accents on silky pantsuits and thigh high boots. Molinari dubbed the collection “unexpected heritage.”Veronica Etro infuses the label’s trademark paisley print with an exoticism in a collection of ethnically inspired looks.

Etro seems to have taken the globe up in her sweep, with plaids reminiscent of the Scottish highlands, shawls that suggest the Andes and Oriental accents on sheer tops that evoke an East West travel route. The silhouette is flowing and the clothes easy to wear. A blanket shawl with fringe finish is worn over printed skirts with boots. Short, wide trousers are worn with a boyish patchwork knit sweater.

Embroidery, lame and jacquard are employed generously. The colours are warm, mostly Earthy tones, like Bordeaux, rust and mustard, with very little black. Looks are finished with folksy bracelets and necklaces or a scarf nearly long enough to brush the floor.

Etro said the collection was “like a clash, a melting pot of different nomadic cultures.”

TEAM ARMANI

Armani is at every home game for the Emporio Armani Milano basketball team, and what goes around comes around: the team came out to support him at the Emporio Armani show on Friday.

“He is always sitting there, in the front row, and he is cheering us and supporting us,” said forward David Moss. “That’s big when you have an owner like that, who is involved.”

And he happens to design a great fitting jacket, too, one that Moss noted fits his 6 foot 5 inch (1.96 meter) frame. “It is awesome,” Moss said.

Armani’s involvement with sport doesn’t end there. He also designs the uniforms for the Italian Olympic team, including the athletes competing in Sochi.

Italian Alpine skier and Christof Innerhofer, who was at the show Friday, went to Sochi with the 50 piece Armani kit, and came home an Olympic champion with a silver and gold. “The Games were great,” he said, unsurprisingly.

LA FEMME NIKITA

She’s Nikita, a femme fatal, short black hair tusseled and worn at times under a distinctive felt hat.